Full Circle

Phnom Penh to Takeo to Kampot to Sinoukville (all in Cambodia) to Hat Lek to Trat to Ko Chang (all in Thailand)

Just as I started this journey on a beautiful island, I am concluding it relaxing on Lonely Beach situated on Ko Chang Island. My spartan bungalow at a mere $2/night is beachfront. High tide rhythmically lulls me to sleep and low tide awaits me in the morning. Treehouse bungalow resort is a haven for bohemian world nomads. I'm one of the rare ones who doesn't have dreadlocks, smokes pot, smells (ok some would beg to differ) and can't for the life of me play the bongo drums. Nevertheless, I feel at home. It's the first time in months that Lucky 33 (my ride appropriately named by my mom) and I have been apart. She is safely stored on the mainland. Personally, I think the time apart will do wonders for our relationship. Lucky 33 gets a break from smellin my stinky ass and I get a break from her riding up mine...no pun intended. Yeah...no leather enemas for several days. Photo: Sunset Angkor Wat

Photo: One of the many floating villages along the way to Battambang, Cambodia.

Leaving Cambodia was like a huge weight lifted off my shoulders. I would have to concur with Ben Moon's opinion that Cambodia is not easy. Not to fill your heads with a biased opinion but Cambodia is definitely one f'ed up country. To give you an example, for the right price you can blow up a cow with a bazooka and if your not to keen on bazookas and cows there is an alternative with a hand grenade and chickens. Sorry, there isn't an option for vegetarians. The cynicism permeates this society. Photo: Gateway to Angkor Thom


I know returning home in a weeks time, many people will bombard me with the question "how was your trip?" And my first response will likely be a blank face. Quite frankly, I have no idea how to describe my experience as I've had so many. Some that made my laugh so hard that I couldn't help but fart out loud (most folks snort, I fart), some sad that even tears could not sooth. I've gained superhuman like strength both mentally and physically finding the motivation to ride rain or shine, hot or cold, flat or hilly, muddy or paved, alone or accompanied. Yet I have realized a fragility and sensitivity within that makes me crumble at the blink of an eye. I've embraced the solitude of solo traveling yet fear the moments I wish I could share. Ultimately, I hope this journey has enriched my character, solidified a deeper love for life, dissolved preconceived notions, numbed doubts of self, and most importantly nourished my unique sense of humor. I have been humbled to the core.

I have a couple more days of herbal saunas, mud facials, Thai massages, fresh seafood, oreo cookies, hilly runs, reading on the beach, and napping in hammocks until I have to make my way back to Bangkok (all by motorized transportation unfortunately).

Photo: Preparing for the rice harvest Sinoukville, Cambodia.

My next post if there is a next post will be on American soil. Otherwise, if you see a weird lookin person with his head in the sky roaming aimlessly, its likely me. Feel free to stop me and ask "How was your trip?" and I will gladly return you a blank face with a glowing smile! Thanks to all who have followed and extended your support on my 2 wheel adventure. Till next time (I already have my next adventure brewing).....

Travel On, Dream Big, and Laugh

Photo: In action....just before a mud faceplant!

On The Fence

Siem Reap to Battambang to Pursat to Kompon Chnang to Phnom Penh



Photo: Local Cambodian

I enjoyed biking into the sunrise this morning listening to the rice fields grow in the background. Little traffic afforded sometime to just chill and peddle. My last several posts have lacked substance mainly because I have not been inspired to write. The mood has to strike me for some reason. Otherwise, it feels like I am just adding BS to the already flooded world of BS.

Making my way closer and closer to Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia, the crescendo of horns and the viral population of scooters erased the peaceful start of my day. I've been on the fence about Cambodia. Many travelers have compared it to India. You either love it or hate it. I believe digging deeper into Cambodian history especially the period of genocide the country experienced in th 70's will resolve my scewed misanthropic viewpoint. Tomorrow I will explore S-21, the location where many victims were tortured and subsequently killed. Many victims were transferred for mass burial to the killing fields, 15 kms outside of the capital. In part, I honestly can't blame this society for the number of beggers and hustlers it has produced. Yesterday, I was invited by a 12 year old girl to see her house. Prior to seeing it, she remarked "please forgive, my family is very poor." Her house was a shack. One room for a family of five. Their income was derived from her hitting the streets and selling sweet cakes at the morning market. I felt absolutely shameful sipping a coke. She had no concept what a library or the internet was. I later found out that the Khmer Rouge destroyed most of the books in the country during their rule.

There is goodness though hidden in the remote villages of Cambodia. They offer what little they have and refuse payment. Many are eager to learn english as this is their way out. Their way of breaking the viciouis cycle.



My thoughts on Angkor Wat remain brewing in the back of my mind or perhaphs I feel my words would not give them justice. Hopefully this picture will describe some of my thoughts.




Photo: Working our way south fro Laos Border. Got Meckong?

Funeral Crasher

Don Det, Laos to Kratie to Some cambodian village to Kompong Cham to Siem Reap (all last places in Cambodia)

? kms (have no idea anymore)

Good News!!! I've safely arrived in Camboddia. I'm traveling in luxury as we speak on an aircon bus bound for Siem Reap where the next several days will be spent exploring Angkor Wat.

The past several days on two wheels have been the hardest but most rewarding experiences yet. First, I departed Don Det Island for the Cambodian border with the mental mindset that I would make fastwork of the short 80km distance to Stung Treng, Cambodia. I gathered as much information on the the conditions of the road and the responses were consistantly "new road." Note to self...... new road does not equal good road. The paved road ended immediately 10km shy of the border where I encountered a sign pointing into the jungle. Looking down as far as I could see was a rocky, muddy, flooded dirt path. Since I was sure I missed the turnout off for the border somewhere, i turned back to ask the first person I encountered. Unfortunately, they confirmed that the path was indeed the correct way. I survived with mud lodged in places I'd rather not mention. But survival is the name of the game.

Since crossing the border, I've bumped into Ariel, an isreali solo cylist, and we have embarked on a crazy adventure one after another. Forgoing the easy road south we took a dirt path out of Kratie. Mud, thigh high water, jumping onto boats and off of boats, falling, riding fast, pushing bikes, you name it.....we've done it. And its been a blast. Hard but a blast. We've slept with a local family in a villag, crashed a funeral, enjoyed the odd taste of Cambodia's local brew known as Ankor Beer, and I assure you more adventures are on the horizon.

So much to explore and can't seem to peddle fast enough!

Sunset Bungalows

Pakse to Muang Khong to Don Det

125 km



I am surrounded by an area known as Four Thousand Islands at the southern most tip of Laos. The Meckong River runs swiftly underneath the deck I sit on as I wait to see my final sunset from this wonderful country. The last several days I have been island hopping by traditional lao wooden boat used to navigate this vast waterway. While the monsoon season has covered the thousands of islands typically visible during the dry season, tops of trees peaking out on the surface serve as reminders of the wonderful world waiting to be revealed in several months time. I am fascinated to see the transformation of this country as the rain stops, the meckong clears and water level recedes. Apparently fresh water dolphins work there way all the way into Laos during the dry season. Rice patties and dolphins, I can only imagine.

I've had the pleasure and honor of sharing my island hopping adventure with good company. Peter offered delightful banter spanning such topics as Global Warming, the scewed dynamics of marriage, the benefits of leveraging a growth investment strategy, and elightening me on the world of offsets. He departed yesterday to make his way back home to Toronto. I've never been to Toronto (on purpose) and you have given me a very good excuse to visiit. And today Amanda departed for Cambodia. As a solo female cyclist from New Zealand, Amanda embodies independence, courage, strength, and compassion. Be assured your inspiration is reaching far beyond the women of southeasst asia. Continue to explore the world by two wheels and hopefully our bikes will get a chance to converse with each other again. And have a blast in Sydney!

Goodbye Laos, Hello Cambodia

The one lane bridge into Pakse describes this quiet town to a tea. No one is in neither a rush to get in or out of this place. It is the gateway to the Bolaven Plateau known famously for its rich Lao coffee. And to all those coffee connoisseurs out there (i know there is quite a few reading this), this is the BEST coffee I've ever had. Jet Black and smooth. Like a fine aged liquor. Mouth watering delicious.

My next post will be from Cambodia in a week or so time. My plan tentatively is to bike to the southern most island in Laos and float across the border via the Meckong. Could you not ask for a better ending and great beginning to a new country?

And then I will work my way down to Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia. Whether by boat or bike who knows. Regardless of the mode of transport, I am sure I will have fun tales to tell.

It's official, I have surpassed the 1000 mile revolution on my bike. And looking forward to more !!!

Tighty Whites

Savannahket to Thao Tan to Pakse

243 kms
18.5 kph
12h 33min

I was treated with a pretty short ride today as yesterday I mistakenly had to log 180 kms to reach a guesthouse. A torrential downpour didn't make things any easier but some guys sitting under a house waved me down to join them in waitng out the storm. One was dressed only soaked tighty whites. I love this country. I was about to join him but realized I was commando that day. Luckily I came across a great guesthouse in Thao Tan where the owners cooked up an amazing home cooked meal. Dea an Xoi (I beleive that is his name) were the most hospitable owners so far not only preparing a feast before my eyes but also sitting with me and enjoying. The meal consisted of spicy papaya salad, small fish caught from there pond in the front yard (first course was fried and second course was grilled), sticky rice, and Beer Lao. After 180 kms, I couldn't have asked for a better meal.

Neither spoke English and my limited Lao (all i know is thank you, hello, and 1 to 10) made dinner conversation extremely entertaining. Xoi, a progressive youthful teenager, relied on his creative miming. And I returned the favor. Its amazing what you can learn without talking. This morning they treated me to an amazing cup of Lao coffee, Phoe (Lao noodle soup), and green tea. To all those cyclists touring this part of Laos, I would have to give this place 5 stars. Its approximately 70 kms north of Pakse.

I will have to elaborate more on Pakse later. About to meet up with a canadian named Peter for dinner. We chatted for several hours this afternoon and I enjoy all the fatherly advice he is bestowing. And his travel stories are light-years more entertaining them mine as he has seen places back in the 80's that had only been seen by few westerners. Wouldn't time travel be grand?

Flip-Side

Ventiane to Paksan to Thong Namy to Thakhaek to Savannakhet

489 km
122 avg kms/day
20.4 avg kph
24 h 8 min

Ah a rest day. I love rest days. Especially when they involve reading next to the Meckong, eating an obscene amount of food (initially I consumed 5 kilos of fruit per day but have resorted to supplementing my diet with junk food to fuel my activity), people watching, and gathering my thoughts.

I have reached Savannahket, the largest city in South Laos which serves as a major trading point betweeen Laos, Thailand, and Vietnam. It was my intentions to cross into Vietnam eastward from here and work my way down to Saigon. However, I have decided to completely forgo Vietnam, max out my visa in Lao and spend my remaining time in Cambodia. I've heard that Vietnam has already been infected by the western bug and I am not ready to step into contemporary society yet. In contrast, quoting from the Moon Travel guide, "Cambodia is not easy going." It is the poorest country in SE Asia. Sounds perfect! I have only grown one hair on my chest (almost impossible on a pacific islander body) and perhaps I can sprout one more before my departure.

For the most part, I beleive I have depicted a rather pretty picture of Laos. Sitting here, I am reminded of the flip-side as a begger sits with no legs at the corner and children run on the streets all day without schooling. Plagued by nearly 100 years of warefare, the country is contaminated by large areas of unexploded ordance (UXO) ie landmines and bombs. More than 40% of those killed or injured are children. It is sad knowing that much of this countries amazing wilderness will remain unexplored due to fear litereally planted by other nations (French, Chinese, American, Soviet, and Vietnamese).





Photo: Typical school setting

I've lost count of the number of schools I have passed by on my rides found empty mid-day. The schools in delapatated ghost town like shape and teachers (qualifed or not) grossly outnumbered by the shear number of children. Only the major towns (i've only come across maybe 4 in this country) seem to have an educational infrastructure. Kids are put to work at a very early age. I remember seeing 2 boys maybe 7 or 8ish at sunrise already engaged in the family trade of goat herding. Their aged beautiful faces smiling. Do they have a choice? Not likely.

I am lucky. We are lucky.