Flip-Side

Ventiane to Paksan to Thong Namy to Thakhaek to Savannakhet

489 km
122 avg kms/day
20.4 avg kph
24 h 8 min

Ah a rest day. I love rest days. Especially when they involve reading next to the Meckong, eating an obscene amount of food (initially I consumed 5 kilos of fruit per day but have resorted to supplementing my diet with junk food to fuel my activity), people watching, and gathering my thoughts.

I have reached Savannahket, the largest city in South Laos which serves as a major trading point betweeen Laos, Thailand, and Vietnam. It was my intentions to cross into Vietnam eastward from here and work my way down to Saigon. However, I have decided to completely forgo Vietnam, max out my visa in Lao and spend my remaining time in Cambodia. I've heard that Vietnam has already been infected by the western bug and I am not ready to step into contemporary society yet. In contrast, quoting from the Moon Travel guide, "Cambodia is not easy going." It is the poorest country in SE Asia. Sounds perfect! I have only grown one hair on my chest (almost impossible on a pacific islander body) and perhaps I can sprout one more before my departure.

For the most part, I beleive I have depicted a rather pretty picture of Laos. Sitting here, I am reminded of the flip-side as a begger sits with no legs at the corner and children run on the streets all day without schooling. Plagued by nearly 100 years of warefare, the country is contaminated by large areas of unexploded ordance (UXO) ie landmines and bombs. More than 40% of those killed or injured are children. It is sad knowing that much of this countries amazing wilderness will remain unexplored due to fear litereally planted by other nations (French, Chinese, American, Soviet, and Vietnamese).





Photo: Typical school setting

I've lost count of the number of schools I have passed by on my rides found empty mid-day. The schools in delapatated ghost town like shape and teachers (qualifed or not) grossly outnumbered by the shear number of children. Only the major towns (i've only come across maybe 4 in this country) seem to have an educational infrastructure. Kids are put to work at a very early age. I remember seeing 2 boys maybe 7 or 8ish at sunrise already engaged in the family trade of goat herding. Their aged beautiful faces smiling. Do they have a choice? Not likely.

I am lucky. We are lucky.