Tighty Whites

Savannahket to Thao Tan to Pakse

243 kms
18.5 kph
12h 33min

I was treated with a pretty short ride today as yesterday I mistakenly had to log 180 kms to reach a guesthouse. A torrential downpour didn't make things any easier but some guys sitting under a house waved me down to join them in waitng out the storm. One was dressed only soaked tighty whites. I love this country. I was about to join him but realized I was commando that day. Luckily I came across a great guesthouse in Thao Tan where the owners cooked up an amazing home cooked meal. Dea an Xoi (I beleive that is his name) were the most hospitable owners so far not only preparing a feast before my eyes but also sitting with me and enjoying. The meal consisted of spicy papaya salad, small fish caught from there pond in the front yard (first course was fried and second course was grilled), sticky rice, and Beer Lao. After 180 kms, I couldn't have asked for a better meal.

Neither spoke English and my limited Lao (all i know is thank you, hello, and 1 to 10) made dinner conversation extremely entertaining. Xoi, a progressive youthful teenager, relied on his creative miming. And I returned the favor. Its amazing what you can learn without talking. This morning they treated me to an amazing cup of Lao coffee, Phoe (Lao noodle soup), and green tea. To all those cyclists touring this part of Laos, I would have to give this place 5 stars. Its approximately 70 kms north of Pakse.

I will have to elaborate more on Pakse later. About to meet up with a canadian named Peter for dinner. We chatted for several hours this afternoon and I enjoy all the fatherly advice he is bestowing. And his travel stories are light-years more entertaining them mine as he has seen places back in the 80's that had only been seen by few westerners. Wouldn't time travel be grand?