Faces

Na Nam to Vang Vieng to Kasi to Phou Khoun to Luang Prabang to Kiu Kacham to Phou Khoun to Nong Teng

Alot of kms (lets just say i've definitely broken in my Brooke's saddle and beaten my crotch into submission)



I write this huddled in a small 8 x 10 shack that has been converted into guest quarters on this adorable working farm in Nong Teng. There is no electricity nor running water here and I couldn't be happier. What illuminates my stay for the night are 3 wax candles. I've opted to turn off my headlamp as it somehow ruins the mood. Nong Teng is so small that I actually almost passed it on 2 wheels. In the distance I hear the purring of a few diesel generators from those families fortunate enough to afford one. cow bells, and the jazzy mellow sound of crickets.



Photo: Fisherman at sunrise hoping for a good day. To the right is the farm at Nong Teng.

Lately I have been withdrawn from blogging. Hence one of the reasons why all of you haven't seen any posts. The lack of internet only aided in reinforcing my actions. But today my ride was so amazing that I cried . It is every cyclists dream ride. Steady zigzag path up, around, and down lush green mountains with every switchback teasing you with yet another picturesque view. A cool breeze giving you goose bumps with the sun peaking behind the clouds every so often to warm you up. Immersed in culture as I stopped in remote villages to snack on hand picked bananas. Having the entire village surround me in awe as if I was an alien from some distant planet was indescribable. Since I will be leaving the mountains and heading back south to the flat lands, I wanted take the time and soak it all in and think about all the fun adventures I;'ve had in just a weeks time (it feels like a year to me)

In Vang Vieng, I had the great fortune of bumping into Martin, a chain smoking british climber who had the most creative ways of using the f word. After buying a round of beer and being introduced to some local climbers, I was invited to check out some steep limestone faces in the area the following morning. Finally, my climbing shoes I hauled all the way from Bangkok would be used! The day at the crag was brilliant.....based on Laos standards. We were at the base of the crag by 10, did one route, and back by lunch drinking a cold one. The best part of the adventure was by no means the sharp, two finger pocket featured limestone but rather being invited into the hut of a local Lao who lived at the base of the crag. Our authentic meal entailed sticky rice, cured pork wrapped in a banana leaf, and chasing each bite with Lao Lao (only the vapors are needed to give you a buzz). I hope to return one day for some more Lao Lao oh and of course to explore more of the unclimbed faces.

In route to Kasi, I could see the mountains looming just a days ride ahead. I remember thinking how in the world am I going to get up and over those things with a loaded touring bike. The mountains rise out of nowhere as if buddha (or god, whom ever you believe in) decided to sprinkle some massive elevation gain in the middle of some rice patties. Who ever says SE Asia is FLAT has NEVER been to SE Asia.

Photo: Prime real estate. View doesn't get any better!

Ah yes, Phou Khoun the brothel town. Let me clarify as mentioning it last time resulted in a lecture from mom about being "responsible". I nicknamed the guesthouse a brothel since it replaced those wonderful complimentary soaps with condoms. I called it the "me love u rear rong time" suite! Funny how even in a foreign script you can tell the difference between ribbed and non-ribbed. I slept like a baby that night as the days ride entailed a 44 km climb up 1000m. Unfortunately, the builders of the road served all the elevation gain in the last 20 km.

I felt strong going to Laung Prabang and combined 2 days ride into one 130 km stretch involving a ridgeline traverse, my second 1000m ascent, and ending on a 40 kph raging downhill (my rims were so hot they almost burned to the touch). I drew my strength that day from Ph Phaban, a majestic peak that dwarfs the surrounding range at 2212m. The symmetry and splendor reminded me of the Matterhorn. I thanked her for safe passage through her range as I ended the day in Laung Prabang.

Laung Prabang, similar to Vang Vieng, is a backpackers haven. You have almost all the creature comforts of a westernized town: ice lattes, pizza, internet, discotec, annoying tuk tuk drivers, 24/7 electricity, and lets definitely not forget hot showers (i hadn't had one for several days and it felt darn good)! I only lasted a day at both places. Funny how I am repelled by all those places that everyone is yearning to see. I didn't come halfway across the world to watch Friends on the tube. I shared a good cup of coffee, watched the sunset over the Nam Xuang River, and discussed worldly adventures with Howard and Tan, two Singapore cyclists I met in the day prior in Phou Khoun. I am a firm believer that actions reflect your character and the route Howard and Tan planned to Vietnam is definitely a sign of how strong they are. Similar to me, they are the tread lightly travelers, acting as true guests in foreign lands absorbing, reflecting, and appreciating the culture and scenery that surrounds them. I wish them strong legs, big lungs, safety, and tenacity as they push to Hanoi. Please drop me a photo of your success!

Kiu Kacham is a day I'd rather forget. While the 40 kph fireball descent was a rush, retracing my steps back to Phou Khoun were painful. The rainy cold day only added insult to injury. I had no rhythm, everything hurt including my earlobes, and my head was questioning my abilities. But I dug deep somehow and finished. I'm sure I'll have another day like this before its all over. And will say to myself, if I can get through Kiu Kacham, I can get through this.

Photo: Women returning from the fields

And back to Phou Khoun which serves as the only entry point to northeast Loas. Since it is a true crossroads village, tourists rarely stay for more than a a quick relief of their bladder prior to heading north to Laung Prabang or east to Phonsovan. For this reason, I'm drawn to it because you can find culture, real Laos. An early arrival afforded me a long day of people watching. Lao faces while showing hardship still smile, kids engage in a fascinating flip flop game (watching for an hour still left be baffled), fresh produce and food stalls stand side by side competing for that little amount of Baht they can take home, girls and boys hauling wood in wicker backpacks needed to cook tomorrows meals, and Lao men mastering I mean truly mastering the art of doing absolutely nothing day in and day out. Life is hard, simple, yet enjoyable here. A blessing and curse I suppose.

Photo: Stopping in one of the many Hmong villages sprinkled throughout the mountains. Many times everyone will surround me as if I a complete alien. Its wild!

My third candle is almost out so i bid you fantastic dreams. I will be riding to Phonsovan tomorrow to check the Plain of Jars, massive stone carved jars of unknown origin theorized to date back 2000 years.

A rare clear night. The stars look different from this side of the world.



Photo: Bearing gifts to a local H'mong family. They accepted the pens I gave out as if they were gold. It truly touched me.